The hub finally arrived late yesterday. I did a little adjustment with my angle grinder and got the wheel on. The the crap began. I can't get the crank off for the PAC sensor. I am going to go out today in search of a crank puller I can borrow or rent. If worst comes to worse i will buy one and then put it on ebay for sale.
I also need to make sure I have a fuse.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Saturday, February 7, 2009
I told you so
Once i ordered the hub motor I got the friction drive bike working. I rode it a couple of times today and the number one problem is that the batteries I was using are trash. They are trash because they were stored flat for a couple of years. No I didn't store those flat. I stored some others flat. I have several batteries I need to trash. If I build the 500 watt friction drive that I have in mind after the hub motor is running, I will have to either do a trailer for the power supply or I will have to buy more batteries.
I'll begin looking around this week to decide.
I'll begin looking around this week to decide.
Friday, February 6, 2009
the new(old) bike
I bought a schwinn travelor 3 10 speed bike today. I have already removed all those tiny wheels. I also ripped off the deraileur and the front sprocket guide. While I was at it, I pulled the twisted up handlebars off and replaced them as well. I took off all the brakes as well. I put a coaster brake wheel on the rear. This is the bike I plan to use for the hub motor that is due here on monday.
I'll post a picture tomorrow I think.
I'll post a picture tomorrow I think.
It's late
The hub kit didn't get shipped on time so it is a day or two late. I can spend the weekend with the friction drive I built. I'm kinda looking forward to testing it with a new gear arrangement and the motor working with good batteries.
I beat on this engine when I assembled it and I expect that I ruined it. It like pulled a set of older batteries down in a block. Most of the block was downhill to. I put the new batteries on it for this next trial.
Well I'll know more today.
I beat on this engine when I assembled it and I expect that I ruined it. It like pulled a set of older batteries down in a block. Most of the block was downhill to. I put the new batteries on it for this next trial.
Well I'll know more today.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
last try
I threw out all my electric scooter motors except one. I kept it only because I had a clear drive shaft and could try one more time to make a friction direct drive from it.
I decided that I would try a welded sleeve. So first I welded a nut on the end of the drive shaft and then welded the spacer from the drive shaft to it. Then I used the grinder to grind it down so that a 3/8" galvanized pipe nipple would slide down over it. When I had it on, I welded it to the spacer sleeve on the drive shaft.
Then I put my welding rod inside the pipe nipple and welded the pipe nipple to the bolt which I had previously put onto the end of the drive shaft. I also put about half and inch of molten metal on the end of the drive shaft, the bolt, and the pipe nipple. I have no idea whether it will hold on not but it seem to run pretty true. That was one of the big problems before.
I welding a 3/4" nut to the end of the nipple and slipped an 1 1/4 axle peg over that. I welded it to the nut so now it seems to be pretty secure. The only thing I screwed up is that I beat on the drive shaft some and I expect it is going to fail pretty soon. Even if it does, if the drive wheel holds I learned what I needed to know.
Of course it come AFTER I ordered the hub motor kit. I will at least have a spare bike if this works, Also a second motor that I can put on the hubber bubber bike if I need it. It should be an interesting next couple of days while I try to test the friction drive motor. If I can get it tested the hub motor will be here soon and it needs testing as well.
I decided that I would try a welded sleeve. So first I welded a nut on the end of the drive shaft and then welded the spacer from the drive shaft to it. Then I used the grinder to grind it down so that a 3/8" galvanized pipe nipple would slide down over it. When I had it on, I welded it to the spacer sleeve on the drive shaft.
Then I put my welding rod inside the pipe nipple and welded the pipe nipple to the bolt which I had previously put onto the end of the drive shaft. I also put about half and inch of molten metal on the end of the drive shaft, the bolt, and the pipe nipple. I have no idea whether it will hold on not but it seem to run pretty true. That was one of the big problems before.
I welding a 3/4" nut to the end of the nipple and slipped an 1 1/4 axle peg over that. I welded it to the nut so now it seems to be pretty secure. The only thing I screwed up is that I beat on the drive shaft some and I expect it is going to fail pretty soon. Even if it does, if the drive wheel holds I learned what I needed to know.
Of course it come AFTER I ordered the hub motor kit. I will at least have a spare bike if this works, Also a second motor that I can put on the hubber bubber bike if I need it. It should be an interesting next couple of days while I try to test the friction drive motor. If I can get it tested the hub motor will be here soon and it needs testing as well.
Seems I am always waiting
The kit is supposed to be on it's way. I am tinkering with a motor I have laying around hoping to get it to accept a friction drive. I would like to have one friction drive bike or at least a motor I can add to the hub bike if I need to do that.
Monday, February 2, 2009
the kit comeith
Yes I broke down and ordered a bike kit. I went electric because I have already done a gas kit. I enjoyed he gas kit completely but the e kit is safer for me these days.
funny thing about it. I told my wife that once I bought the kit the friction drive would work. Last night I realize how to do the friction drive using a scooter motor. There is one set of motors that would work for sure.
I could buy one of those for about thirty bucks. The sprocket on it has a hub and pin connection. All one would have to do is to weld a 1/2 in nut onto the sprocket while it is on the motor. You would have a quick easy connector for any drive you wanted to use. Why It took me so Long I don't know but I do know I'm going to save a bike to put a friction drive on cause most likely I will build one later on.
In the mean time while I wait for the kit to arrive. I am going to continue trying to salvage a motor here.
I also need to get a bike ready for the new kit. I will need to buy one from the thrift store for the. Both of the frames i have now have been drilled for tests so the frames are weak and they also have the wrong crank sets. I need to find one the right size and with the right crank set. Shouldn't be all that hard to do.
funny thing about it. I told my wife that once I bought the kit the friction drive would work. Last night I realize how to do the friction drive using a scooter motor. There is one set of motors that would work for sure.
I could buy one of those for about thirty bucks. The sprocket on it has a hub and pin connection. All one would have to do is to weld a 1/2 in nut onto the sprocket while it is on the motor. You would have a quick easy connector for any drive you wanted to use. Why It took me so Long I don't know but I do know I'm going to save a bike to put a friction drive on cause most likely I will build one later on.
In the mean time while I wait for the kit to arrive. I am going to continue trying to salvage a motor here.
I also need to get a bike ready for the new kit. I will need to buy one from the thrift store for the. Both of the frames i have now have been drilled for tests so the frames are weak and they also have the wrong crank sets. I need to find one the right size and with the right crank set. Shouldn't be all that hard to do.
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